Alessandro Michele’s highly anticipated debut for Valentino is a dazzling and delicate exploration of vulnerability, teetering on the fragile edge between the impermanent nature of beauty and its enduring allure. After his seven-year tenure at Gucci, Michele's arrival at Valentino heralds a deeply poetic and introspective collection, one that contemplates the fleeting essence of life while grounding itself in the eternal power of elegance. It’s not merely a fashion presentation but a visceral, philosophical journey into the essence of existence—an emotional symphony that blurs the lines between ethereal dreams and tactile reality.
Staged in the intimate, hauntingly romantic setting of Avenue de la Porte Châtillon, the show transported attendees into a forgotten, dreamlike world where time itself seemed suspended. The space, filled to the brim with Michele’s loyal admirers, enveloped the collection in an air of nostalgia—an old house draped in diaphanous fabrics, each corner filled with shadows and whispered secrets. Michele, a master of blending past and future, conjured a melancholic yet hopeful vision of beauty, where each piece of the collection felt like a fleeting moment suspended in time—intangible yet deeply moving.
Michele’s Valentino is an ode to human frailty, a fragile but beautiful portrayal of our mortal condition. “We are fragile creatures,” his press notes begin, setting the tone for a collection that tiptoes on the edge of existential uncertainty. Models glided down the runway like delicate figures balanced on thin glass, their movements embodying the ever-present tension between falling and floating. This push and pull between fragility and resilience became the thread that wove Michele’s dreamy, romantic garments together.
Diving into Valentino’s rich archives, Michele reimagined the house’s historical elegance through his own deeply personal, philosophical lens. Flowing organza ruffles, ethereal layers of silk, and finely embroidered gowns seemed to shimmer and dissolve as they moved, embodying the ephemeral nature of beauty itself. Every detail—whether it was a sheer bodice delicately adorned with lace or a sweeping gown cascading in layers of tulle—felt like a whisper from a distant, forgotten time. It’s a collection that asks its audience to reflect on the fleeting yet poignant moments of life, where beauty exists not in permanence, but in the fragile, transient glimpses that take our breath away.
At the heart of Michele’s collection lies the belief that beauty, though often fleeting, serves as a powerful remedy against the chaos of existence. His designs, graceful and elegant yet full of emotional weight, offer a sense of calm in a tumultuous world. Each garment, crafted with meticulous precision and intricate handwork, becomes a wearable sanctuary—a cocoon of exquisite detail that provides solace amidst the unpredictability of life - the industry needed this. His vivid use of colour—ranging from deep, velvety reds and lustrous purples to soft, powdery pinks—injects the collection with emotional intensity, while lighter, airy pastels offer a soft, ethereal counterbalance.
Michele’s play with textures further enhances this delicate balance. Rich, opulent fabrics such as velvet, silk, and satin mingle effortlessly with intricate lace and diaphanous organza, creating a tactile world where each piece feels simultaneously weightless and deeply grounded. The embroidery and embellishments, which echo Valentino’s artisanal heritage, feel almost painterly—each stitch a brushstroke on a canvas of fabric. The garments not only envelop the body but invite the wearer and the viewer to experience beauty as a form of healing, a soothing balm that lulls the soul and shields it against the chaos of the real world.
Michele’s designs for Valentino are not just aesthetic statements—they are poetic meditations on the human experience. He draws on the philosophical concept of 'alètheia', or the revelation of truth, to create a collection that feels like a delicate spider’s web of interconnected meanings and emotions. Each look is an invitation to explore a new layer of understanding, a new connection between ourselves, our memories, and the world around us.
Michele’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Valentino is nothing short of transformative. By reinterpreting the house’s archival elegance through his unique, introspective vision, Michele breathes new life into Valentino’s storied legacy. His debut is not just a collection—it is a profound exploration of beauty, time, and human fragility. In an age where fashion often feels fleeting and disposable, Michele offers a poignant reminder that true beauty—while ephemeral—has the power to transcend time, to heal, and to give meaning to our lives.
As the models took their final, graceful steps down the runway, one thing was clear: Michele’s Valentino is a celebration of life’s delicate, fleeting moments, where beauty and fragility collide in a sublime, emotional dance. His collection is an ode to the power of creation, a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, and a breathtaking reminder that in our most fragile moments, we can find the deepest, most profound beauty.
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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