For Schiaparelli Autumn Winter 2025, Daniel Roseberry delved deep into the heart of Texas with an unexpected couture twist. Titled Lone Star, this collection was a tribute to bold, self-assured women who dress on their own terms. Think sculptural duster coats, gilded cowboy boots, and a defiant attitude that demands attention without needing approval. In his show notes, Roseberry invoked Elsa Schiaparelli’s rejection of the male gaze, recalling how her collaborations with male artists never compromised the autonomy of her vision: "Yes, she worked with them, but her designs were never meant for their eyes alone."
Schiaparelli’s classic contradictions were ever-present: the fusion of rugged and refined, masculine and feminine, surreal and practical. A ranch belt buckle, usually seen as utilitarian, was dripping in gilded lobster motifs, while beaten metal turned out to be sumptuous, supple leather. The collection toyed with the tension between utility and fantasy, creating a space where function met high fashion in ways only Schiaparelli could achieve.
Textures were paramount. Velvet with oversized feather motifs was stamped with intricate precision, while airy jacquards floated like clouds, and bags glittered with golden studs that beckoned attention from every angle. Accessories were not to be overlooked, with keyhole earrings and surrealist necklaces offering a playful yet sophisticated vibe, while top-handle bags were blown up to such epic proportions they could double as overnight luggage.
This collection was a wild, opulent ride that captured the very essence of modern luxury, tapping into a spirit that felt both timeless and relevant. The Western theme of Lone Star was seamlessly infused with the glamour and craftsmanship of Parisian haute couture, offering a vision of powerful femininity reimagined for today.
Roseberry’s designs explore the contradictions women navigate in their lives – the dance between masculine archetypes and the feminine divine. In Lone Star, these themes unfolded through impeccable tailoring and a deep respect for craftsmanship. Think oversized handbags paired with body-hugging flocked bodysuits, delicate feathers and sculpted silhouettes, all encapsulating a narrative of ambition, strength, and reinvention.
The collection was as much about texture as it was about shape. A shimmering feathered coat—a nod to old Hollywood glamour—was the showstopper, its dramatic wings unfolding with every movement. Beneath it, a grey feathered bustier paired with a satin bias-cut skirt revealed Roseberry’s mastery of feather manipulation, using glycerin to enhance the lustrous shine and capture light in mesmerising ways.
The Schiaparelli Lone Star collection was all about pushing the boundaries of extravagance and femininity. With bold references to 1920s, 1930s, and 1950s silhouettes, this show took the house’s legacy of surrealism and transformed it into something modern, fresh, and utterly chic. From feathered elegance to structured corsets, Roseberry’s creations were wearable sculptures that resonated with the spirit of Icarus—those striving for perfection, yet always dancing on the edge of ambition’s fragility.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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