Paris Fashion Week is no stranger to seismic moments, but few carried the weight of Sarah Burton’s Givenchy debut. On the eve of International Women’s Day, the industry gathered at the brand’s headquarters, where anticipation crackled in the air. Burton, a designer revered for her quiet mastery and intellectual approach to tailoring, was not just stepping into the role of creative director—she was tasked with reviving the soul of a house that had drifted from its couture roots.
For her first collection, Burton chose not to indulge in theatrics or nostalgia. Instead, she distilled the essence of Hubert de Givenchy’s early work into sharp, modern forms. The collection was underpinned by precision—razor-cut coats with cocooned backs nodded to the 1950s archives, while hourglass tailoring redefined power dressing. The rigor of construction was everywhere, from structured jackets that sculpted the body to draped, scarf-like leather pieces that added fluidity to an otherwise architectural collection.
Burton’s Givenchy woman is not one for ornamentation, but for presence. Chantilly lace—an archival signature—was slashed into abbreviated lengths, reworked into micro dresses that balanced fragility with confidence. A fishnet dress with a below-the-knee peplum came in both ivory and a searing shade of yellow, a subtle nod to Timothée Chalamet’s custom Givenchy look at the Oscars, hinting at Burton’s unfolding narrative for the house.
The dualities of womanhood—softness and structure, concealment and exposure—were deftly woven into the collection. A part-puffer, part-pencil-skirt leather dress with silver accents injected modern edge, while strapless, full-skirted gowns recalled Givenchy’s golden era without veering into sentimentality. If there was any doubt about Burton’s ability to transition from the poetic intensity of her tenure at McQueen to the disciplined elegance of Givenchy, this collection laid it to rest.
The front row eschewed the bombast of celebrity spectacle, instead hosting a discerning group of actors and creatives: Rooney Mara, Vanessa Kirby, Sophie Okonedo, Raye, and Diane Kruger. Their presence spoke to the kind of woman Burton designs for—one who values quiet power over performative excess.
Givenchy had been without a creative lead for over a year following Matthew Williams’ departure in 2024. In an era where fashion houses increasingly prioritise commercial virality over artistic legacy, LVMH’s decision to appoint Burton signalled a return to craftsmanship, to ideas. She is clearly still defining her Givenchy—a house with a complex past and an even more uncertain present—but the industry is watching, and rooting for her.
As the final look disappeared backstage and Burton emerged, characteristically understated in jeans and a sweater, the crowd erupted. Not just in appreciation, but in something rarer: respect. In a season dominated by noise, hers was the show that truly spoke.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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