For Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Jonathan Anderson masterfully answers the question of whether fashion can captivate without resorting to visual excess. By embracing radical reduction, Anderson creates an audacious collection where every piece exudes quiet brilliance and understated elegance. It’s a breathtaking study of minimalism, stripping away the noise to reveal something hauntingly pure, profoundly delicate, and immaculately curated. This collection is a visceral exploration of form, texture, and the meticulous craftsmanship that defines Anderson’s work.
Set in a pristine, all-white show space, where a single sculpture by Tracey Emin—a small, fragile bird atop a towering post—stands in monumental solitude, the collection unfolds with a sense of serene reverence. Here, every movement, every garment, becomes an exercise in restraint and a testament to the beauty of simplicity. Anderson’s vision thrives in this meditative silence, where the absence of distraction invites contemplation and a deeper connection with the pieces.
The silhouettes in Anderson’s SS25 collection are nothing short of ethereal. Sculpted with precision and intent, they move like fluid works of art, bending and flowing in ways that feel both abstract and dreamlike. Dresses billow and curve away from the body, their voluminous forms suggesting a kind of weightless movement, as if caught in the midst of an otherworldly breeze. The tailoring, reduced to its very essence, maintains a curvaceous fluidity while boning and wiring allow the garments to expand outward in unexpected and dramatic ways.
Anderson creates a delightful tension between structured precision and flowing grace, with pieces that range from grand, looping skirts to crudely cropped tops. The juxtaposition of extremes—rigid and loose, bold and soft—adds layers of complexity and intrigue to each look. The invitation to second-guess is constant; nothing is quite what it seems. In Anderson’s hands, minimalism becomes not just a stripping away of excess, but an exploration of distortion, of garments that defy expectations and embrace fluidity in form and function.
While the silhouettes demand attention, it’s the luxurious and intricate detailing that gives this collection its emotional depth. Anderson brings texture to the forefront, using it to create contrast, amplify forms, and ground the ethereal silhouettes in something tangible. The surfaces are a symphony of exquisite craftsmanship: impressionist flowers bloom across delicate silks, their painterly elegance contrasting with the clean lines of the garments. Feathers, meticulously printed with paintings or camouflage patterns, flutter like whispers of rebellion against the minimalist backdrop.
Mother-of-pearl shells glisten softly, their opalescence catching the light like precious gems hidden within the folds of fabric. Sequins shimmer across knits, their all-over application adding a touch of sensual glamour to an otherwise restrained palette. Soft, buttery Nappa leather appears in fluid forms, bringing a tactile richness that invites touch and admiration. Every fabric, every finish, feels deliberate—an exercise in balancing opulence with minimalism, creating pieces that are both captivatingly simple and lavishly intricate.
In contrast to the grand, billowing silhouettes, the footwear and accessories ground the collection with their sharp, graphic lines and utilitarian elegance. Boat shoes, elongated oxfords, and high-top Ballet Runners provide a solid, structured foundation, their minimalist forms echoing the clean, architectural grace of the garments. Yet, even here, Anderson introduces subtle subversions—the shoes are elongated, and exaggerated, their proportions slightly skewed to add a touch of surrealism.
The accessories, too, embody a quiet luxury. The introduction of the new trapezoid-shaped bag, aptly named the Madrid, brings an understated yet sophisticated addition to Loewe’s accessory lineup. Its feather-light construction and supple leather design perfectly balance elegance with ease. These accessories, much like the collection itself, don’t shout for attention—they whisper, beckoning closer inspection and rewarding it with sublime craftsmanship and subtle sophistication.
By embracing the radical reduction of form and texture, Anderson creates a poignant and audacious narrative that celebrates both the simplicity and complexity of garment construction. Every piece feels like a meditation on the power of restraint—a quiet but powerful statement in an industry that often prizes excess.
In this collection, Anderson reminds us that beauty lies not in loud, over-the-top gestures, but in the delicate, finely crafted details. It’s a collection that invites us to pause, to look closer, and to appreciate the subtleties of design. By taking away all the noise, Anderson leaves us with something far more profound—a minimalist symphony of silhouettes, textures, and quiet brilliance.
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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