With the recent announcement of his departure from LOEWE, Jonathan Anderson presents his final collection for the house—a poignant farewell that encapsulates his visionary approach to fashion. Anderson doesn’t just design clothes; he curates an experience. For LOEWE’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, he strips away the conventions of the runway, opting instead for an immersive presentation where mannequins replace models, allowing the clothes to speak in stillness. His ongoing dialogue with art, craftsmanship, and form takes on new dimensions this season, drawing inspiration from Bauhaus pioneers Josef and Anni Albers. The result? A collection that reimagines traditional tailoring and materials through a cerebral yet strikingly tactile lens, proving once again that fashion, in his hands, is a living, breathing study of shape and texture.
Architectural Precision Meets Sculptural Fluidity
Anderson’s vision for AW25 is one of meticulous construction and bold distortion. Silhouettes flirt between structure and movement—draped, spliced, and manipulated into unexpected compositions. Leather, a LOEWE staple, is sculpted with almost architectural intent, flexing and folding like a wearable study in physics. Distorted proportions play a key role: micro details—like a tiny ring—are blown up into monumental statements, transforming accessories into focal points. It’s a world where scale is subverted, and perception is constantly challenged.
Deconstructing the Familiar
Wardrobe staples are anything but ordinary. Shirts and knits become playgrounds for reinvention, their forms twisted through layering and texture. Menswear and womenswear dissolve into a single, fluid vocabulary, where oversized sleeves meet cropped, weightless trousers. These aren’t just workwear classics reworked; they are garments in motion, shapeshifting between function and abstraction.
Jersey Dresses as Soft Architecture
Among the most fascinating pieces are the jersey dresses, which stretch and curve into organic, sculptural forms—fluid yet rigid, soft yet structured. They wrap the body in an interplay of geometry and movement, celebrating the paradox of form. Elsewhere, hybrid garments emerge: blazers morph into vests mid-seam, and coats unravel into negative space. Anderson continually forces the familiar to evolve, creating pieces that exist in the liminal space between fashion and art.
Texture as a Visual Language
Surface treatment is paramount, turning garments into tactile experiences. Dense beading nods to LOEWE’s artisanal roots, while metallic fringes drip from Prince of Wales checks, liquefying into something entirely unexpected. Beaded organza strands oscillate between transparency and opacity, shifting with movement like living sculptures. Here, clothes are not just seen but felt—an invitation to engage with fashion beyond the visual.
Proportions That Defy Convention
LOEWE's collection plays with volume in radical ways. Tricot stitches are exaggerated to a surreal scale, creating an almost hypnotic optical illusion. Leather jackets refuse to conform—collars inflate, cuts skew asymmetrically, and tailoring unravels into something utterly unorthodox. Every look pushes against the boundaries of traditional fashion, rewriting the rules as it goes.
Accessories as Art Objects
Bags echo Josef Albers’ Homage to the Square, transforming the brand's signature silhouettes into geometric masterpieces. The Puzzle bag evolves into even more abstract forms, while the Flamenco clutch and Amazona bag reimagine colour and structure in ways that feel both modern and timeless. Here, accessories are not afterthoughts but integral to Anderson’s broader artistic vision.
The Runway as an Exhibition Space
Set in the grand 18th-century Hôtel de Maisons, the collection unfolds as a conceptual installation. Rooms become immersive landscapes, woven with references to the Albers’ work. Fashion is not just presented—it is framed, curated, and dissected. Anderson reaffirms his mastery of transforming the runway into a space where fashion and art exist in conversation, challenging how we experience clothing beyond the act of wearing.
This season, Jonathan Anderson continues to prove that LOEWE is a brand defined not just by garments, but by ideas. This collection isn’t about fleeting trends—it’s about pushing fashion into new intellectual and artistic territories. By manipulating scale, form, and texture, Anderson invites us to see fashion as something far greater than fabric and cut—it’s an evolving, living piece of art.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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