At Valentino’s AW25 show, Alessandro Michele took us to a very different kind of runway — one where the club bathroom became a stage for the fashion spectacle. This wasn’t the usual glamorous backdrop; instead, Michele transformed the venue into a surreal, almost surrealistic take on intimacy. With his theme “Le Méta Théâtre Des Intimités,” he explored the personal, strange, and fleeting moments that often happen in the most unexpected places.
Set against the house’s iconic red, guests found themselves seated in front of a line of toilet cubicles, complete with sinks and mirrors, reminiscent of the chaotic, candid energy of club toilets. The familiar Valentino red, usually reserved for more refined settings, served as the perfect backdrop for a raucous rave vibe. Guest appearances included Chappell Roan, Alexa Chung, Lana Del Rey’s track “Gods and Monsters” as the soundtrack, and the models — oh, the models — who stepped into the spotlight, bare feet visible under the cubicle doors, adding an almost voyeuristic element to the show.
The drama truly began when the rave music dropped and models emerged with the fervor of a late-night party. With neon lights and strobe effects, it felt like a dancefloor at its peak. But there was more to this show than meets the eye. Michele’s design codes were present but evolved, making the usual Valentino opulence feel a little more daring. Fur-trimmed coats, sparkling necklaces, and lace tights—elements typical of Michele’s work—came together to create a look that felt intimately connected, yet distinctly fresh for this new chapter of his Valentino journey.
The models themselves became figures in this meta-theatrical play, as their almost theatrical headgear—flesh-colored headbands and black balaclavas paired with oversized sunglasses—crafted a post-surgery, hyper-stylized persona. As Michele’s show notes revealed, the collection centered on "Who are we?" questioning the very nature of our identities in the digital age. Those odd, fleeting moments of connection in club bathrooms — where strangers come and go — mirror the strange intimacy that Michele sought to explore in his collection.
As for the fashion, it’s no surprise that the pieces were unapologetically Michele, but with a refined twist. The show was more controlled than his usual maximalist offering, and we saw bold all-black looks, sleek corset jackets, and sweeping obsidian velvet skirts that wouldn't be out of place on a gritty club night (if you could imagine wearing such luxe fabrics in such an environment). There were the expected ruffled column gowns in gold and ivory, a Valentino hallmark, and tons of fuzzy faux fur coats — a major trend this season and one we’ll definitely be seeing much more of come autumn.
What was most striking about this collection, however, was the playful yet subversive twist that still honored Michele’s Gucci DNA. This wasn’t the romantic Valentino of the past; it was something new, something provocative, yet rooted in the house’s storied history. With Michele at the helm, expect to see this collection ripple through the fashion world, introducing a new kind of elegance — one that takes risks and embraces the bizarre. For those of us looking for a taste of what’s to come, one thing’s for sure: Valentino’s AW25 show proves that the future is anything but conventional.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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