Huishan Zhang’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection brings the 1960s into sharp focus, using the era's mix of high glamour and rebellious spirit to explore the tension between tradition and liberation. Drawing from two of the most iconic symbols of the decade—Edie Sedgwick and Valley of the Dolls—Zhang blends the elegance of vintage couture with a modern subversive edge. The result is a collection that’s not just about looking back; it’s about using the past to shape a new, bold vision for the future of fashion.
The collection immediately captures the opulence of the early '60s, but with a twist. Dresses crafted from rich duchesse satin, Mikado silk, and metallic jacquards come in flattering A-line and tulip shapes that echo the mid-century couture look. But there’s more to it than just classic shapes—Zhang pushes these fabrics to their limits, using exaggerated bows, oversized proportions, and a striking clash of colours to subvert the glamour. A strict monochrome palette of black and white is punctuated with vibrant pops of fuchsia, pistachio, rust, and silver, creating a visual tension that feels both nostalgic and fresh.
The collection’s biggest nod to the rebellious spirit of the ‘60s comes through in the details. Think feathered balaclavas, plastic coats, and go-go boots, all references to the experimental energy of Sedgwick’s Factory days. These elements introduce an element of fun and boldness to the collection, while the more luxurious elements—silk draped gowns, fluid sequin dresses, and sheer tulle gowns with intricate embroidery—call back to the cinematic elegance of Valley of the Dolls. There’s a real contrast here, not only between styles but between the freedom of Sedgwick’s era and the controlled glamour of Hollywood. It’s this tension that gives the collection its edge.
What makes Zhang’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection stand out, though, is his approach to tailoring. Gender-fluid cuts and unexpected silhouettes, like double-breasted trouser suits in black and sand wool or long skirt suits with crystal embroidery, challenge the traditional boundaries of menswear and womenswear. These sharp, structured pieces are juxtaposed with more fluid elements, like skinny black ties, skinny trousers, and poplin shirts—allowing Zhang to navigate the complicated relationship between masculinity and femininity. This is fashion that’s both about breaking the rules and rewriting them altogether.
In his own words, Zhang says, “The ‘60s taught us that progress is rarely linear.” This is exactly the essence of the collection. By blending the fierce independence of Sedgwick with the tragic, larger-than-life glamour of Valley of the Dolls Zhang pays tribute to the women who helped redefine what it meant to be a woman in that era, while also challenging the narratives that tried to contain them. The result is a collection that feels both timeless and forward-thinking—a celebration of femininity, rebellion, and the freedom to express yourself in your own terms. In a season dominated by loud statements, Huishan Zhang’s quiet revolution stands out, proving that rebellion can be as much about subtlety as it is about spectacle.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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