There are few designers whose aesthetic language is as distinct as Haider Ackermann’s. Known for his poetic draping, razor-sharp tailoring, and androgynous glamour, the designer has long been a darling of the industry’s most discerning dressers. But his appointment at Tom Ford raised a critical question: how would Ackermann—an artist of fluidity—interpret the hard-edged sensuality of one of fashion’s most unapologetically decadent brands? His Autumn/Winter 2025 collection answered that with a knowing smirk, delivering a masterclass in restraint and release.
The show, held at Place Vendôme, began with a whisper rather than a bang—models emerged in elongated silhouettes, their movements languid yet commanding. The first look set the tone: a precisely tailored pastel green blazer, paired with rich brown trousers and an undone caramel-hued shirt, a study in masculine sensuality. This was not the overtly suggestive Ford of the late '90s but rather a contemporary iteration—where attraction simmers beneath the surface rather than shouting for attention.
This shift in attitude was most apparent in Ackermann’s reworking of Ford’s signature power suit. While the house has long been synonymous with bold, oversized shoulders and aggressive sex appeal, Ackermann softened the lines without losing any authority. Jackets were sculpted but supple, trousers slung low on the hip, and the overall effect was one of confidence rather than aggression. It was tailoring that acknowledged the power of subtlety, the way a perfectly cut jacket can command attention without excess.
And then there was colour—an unexpected jolt of vibrancy that set the collection apart. Acidic yellows, deep sapphires, and electric greens punctuated the lineup, with the designer proving that luxury need not be synonymous with muted tones. A standout moment came in the form of a traffic-light-red suit, its impact immediate and unwavering. Meanwhile, texture played an equally vital role; a tan brown blazer in a tactile, almost hairy fabrication, and a series of jewel-encrusted evening looks, offered the kind of tactile opulence that Ford himself built his empire on.
The collection, a 56-look presentation, felt like a dialogue between past and present—between Ford’s signature hedonism and Ackermann’s more introspective sensuality. As models walked the runway with an effortless, androgynous allure, it became clear that Ackermann wasn’t interested in simply paying homage to Ford’s legacy—he was refining it for a new era.
Backstage, he summed up the mood succinctly: “The house of Ford is all about vanity.” But in his hands, that vanity has evolved beyond the surface. Where Ford’s vision of seduction was all about high-octane sex appeal, Ackermann’s is about desire that lingers—a morning-after lipstick stain rather than a bold red lip. The result? A collection that feels both timely and timeless, a redefinition of modern power dressing that whispers rather than shouts.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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