In the enigmatic world of fashion, where style meets sentiment, LOEWE's Fall/Winter 2024 collection emerges as a canvas of introspection. Set against the poetic backdrop of Albert York's small yet intense paintings, the runway becomes a stage for the exploration of provenance and its relevance in our contemporary existence.
Albert York's profound words, "I think we live in a paradise. This is a Garden of Eden. Really. It is," echo through the collection, inviting us to question the paradises we inhabit. LOEWE, known for its distinctive lens, deftly turns the tropes of class and wealth on their heads with a unique blend of bluntness and abstraction.
The runway unfolds with the aplomb of an Etonian morning suit, intricately detailed mosaic rings featuring beloved dogs, wooden carvings transformed into coat collars, and floral tapestries from drawing rooms woven onto dresses and printed onto trousers. It's a celebration of juxtaposition—caviar beading on biker boots, and Squeeze bags; a symphony where elegance meets audacity.
As the collection navigates the realms of tailoring and couture, masculine and feminine languages intertwine. Faultless jackets and flowing slacks coexist with neckties and sculptural short dresses. LOEWE crafts a mindscape where leather and its surroundings matter—draped nappa blousons, leather aviator jackets, the Flamenco Purse in a new large size—all celebrating the tactile allure of this versatile material.
Prints also take centre stage, creating illusions of materials and melding checks into mille feuille sliced chiffon, gaining a 3D materiality. The clothes, with their palpable presence, embody the essence of being in the moment—a celebration of existence, as Albert York eloquently put it.
The show space itself, conceived as a maze or art gallery bathed in three shades of green, pays homage to York's idyllic landscapes and floral still lifes. LOEWE's runway becomes a living canvas, intertwining with York's works displayed on the walls—a visual dialogue between fashion and art, past and present.
Albert York, born in 1928, became a muse for LOEWE, his paintings were also famously collected by First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. As the collection unfolds, York's legacy finds a new canvas, inviting us to ponder our paradises and the privilege of being alive. LOEWE's Fall/Winter 2024 collection isn't just about fashion; it's a narrative woven with threads of reflection, celebration, and the timeless beauty of the moment.
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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