Maximilian Davis’ Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Ferragamo is a rich, evocative dialogue between past and present, an exploration of the brand’s deep ties with ballet and his own personal heritage. By blending the fluid grace of the dance world with Ferragamo’s iconic history, Davis crafts a collection that feels both timeless and modern, paying tribute to moments of artistic beauty captured in time. From Salvatore Ferragamo’s personal relationship with iconic dancers like Katherine Dunham and Rudolf Nureyev to the understated elegance of mid-century Florence, Davis’ designs are a love letter to the brand’s artistry and the expressive freedom found in movement.
The spirit of ballet is woven throughout the collection, but not in its most literal form. Rather, Davis channels the quiet strength and elegance of dancers through fluid, second-skin cashmere and cotton layers, tied and twisted in ways that mirror practice uniforms. Ballooning silhouettes—opera coats, parachute dresses in silk nylon, and suede—capture the lightness of motion, offering both freedom and structure. The collection drifts across decades, drawing on the languid tailoring of Nureyev’s 1980s wardrobe and the glamorous sequin embroidery of Dunham’s mid-century allure, updated with modern techniques like resin treatments to bring the past into sharp focus.
But this season, Ferragamo’s typically European ethos expands, imbued with the energy and textures of the Caribbean. Raw finishes contrast sharply with clean lines, giving the collection an organic, undone quality. Frayed, stonewashed denim brings a tactile element, while rubber jelly moccasins and organic forms inject a playful Caribbean ease. Hemlines rise flirtatiously, hinting at romance with an edge of fetishism, balancing the purity of the collection with subtle sensuality. It’s an unexpected blend of ballet’s refinement and the rawness of island life harmonized into something distinctly Ferragamo.
Footwear plays a starring role in the collection, paying homage to the house’s mastery of shoemaking while reimagining classic styles for today. The angular Eva pump and graphic sandals lace delicately up the calf with matte silk ribbons, nodding to the ballerina inspiration with sleek minimalism. Meanwhile, fringed jacquard mules and geometric booties, drawing from archival 1940s designs, offer a contemporary twist on timeless elegance. The result is a footwear collection that balances formality with freedom, much like the clothing itself.
Davis also reinterprets Ferragamo’s iconic leatherwork, integrating it seamlessly into the accessories line. The house’s signature Gancini motif appears intricately interlaced across handbags, while stonewashed denim jacquard and perforated satchel bags offer a sustainable, forward-looking take on Ferragamo’s heritage. Supple leather handbags, like the gently collapsing Hug bag, speak to a new sense of relaxed luxury—softened, reconstructed, yet maintaining an inherent structure. The Foulard and hobo bags are reimagined with draped scarves and delicate Gancini chains, adding a touch of effortless sophistication to the collection’s understated grandeur.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection is more than an exploration of Ferragamo’s ballet ties—it’s a study of movement, heritage, and the interplay of different eras. Maximilian Davis has managed to fuse the freedom of dance, the grit of the Caribbean, and the elegance of Italian craftsmanship into a collection that is bold in its contrast yet harmonious in its execution. It’s a poetic vision, one that speaks to the enduring power of fashion to transcend time and place, capturing moments of beauty in motion.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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