Last season, Chemena Kamali reignited the boho trend with a fresh, contemporary lens, delivering a wardrobe designed for the modern, effortlessly cool woman. But if anyone thought she would settle into a safe rhythm, Chloé’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection proved otherwise. Kamali is not simply reviving past aesthetics; she is redefining them, pushing Chloé's signature codes into the future while honouring the house’s heritage.
"As I started working on this collection, I felt that moving forward is just as important as honouring the past. It is about continuing to explore, to redefine and to evolve the Chloé woman’s state of mind," Kamali shared in her show notes.
At its core, Chloé has always represented a unique balance of femininity and independence, of sensuality and ease. The house has long been a refuge for women who exude an effortless confidence—think Jane Birkin in the '70s, swathed in diaphanous Chloé silks, or Chloé Sevigny in the '90s, pairing the label’s delicate dresses with an insouciant attitude. Kamali's AW25 collection captures this legacy but injects it with a new dynamism, redefining who the Chloé woman is today.
For AW25, that woman is as ethereal as ever, but her wardrobe is imbued with a newfound sense of intention. Sheer fabrics dominate, appearing in an array of maxi skirts, gossamer-thin dresses, and voluminous trousers, all rendered in Chloé's signature earth tones. Layering is key, with translucent chiffon skirts floating over structured boots and weightless blouses cinched at the waist to create a silhouette that is both dreamy and defined.
Textures and movement play a vital role. Billowy fabrics catch the air as models walk, exuding a sense of freedom that is integral to the Chloé spirit. But it’s not all softness—leather harnesses, tailored outerwear, and precisely cut suiting elements inject strength into the otherwise weightless collection, embodying the duality Kamali describes as "soft strength."
Accessories are sculptural yet organic: oversized leather bags with knotted handles, knee-high boots in buttery calfskin, and jewellery inspired by nature’s imperfect forms. The colour palette leans into the brand's affinity for warm, sun-faded hues—burnt sienna, honeyed beige, and soft ecru—but is punctuated by unexpected pops of deep plum and cerulean blue.
This season’s Chloé woman is romantic yet grounded, nostalgic yet forward-thinking. She embraces the ease of the past but navigates the world with a contemporary confidence. Kamali’s vision is clear: the Chloé girl isn’t just a muse; she is the author of her own narrative, moving fluidly between the past and the present, always with a sense of exploration at heart.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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