The Celine Women’s Summer 2025 collection is not just another showcase of exquisite craftsmanship; it’s a swan song for Hedi Slimane, who, after seven transformative years at the helm, announced his departure days after unveiling this nostalgic, melancholic, yet audacious collection. Titled Un Été Français, this season’s offering is Slimane’s deeply personal love letter to the 1960s youth culture, bringing the ethos of Françoise Sagan’s novel La Chamade to life in a style that blends the rebellious elegance of Juliette Gréco with the wistful romanticism of Françoise Hardy.
Set against the grandiose backdrop of Château de Compiègne, the collection unfolds like a cinematic masterpiece, the models weaving through the palace’s opulent halls while Nico and The Velvet Underground’s Femme Fatale plays in the background. Slimane, ever the auteur, uses this historic setting to create a distinct world, an era where youth and sophistication, rebellion and elegance, intertwine seamlessly. The show’s opener, a Celine-branded typewriter, sets the tone—a subtle nod to Slimane’s literary inspiration and his narrative-driven approach to design.
The collection’s silhouettes transport us back to the 1960s, Slimane’s favourite era, but with a fresh, modern twist that makes every piece feel both nostalgic and cutting-edge. The pleated schoolgirl skirt suit, a key element throughout, is reimagined in soft, hand-embroidered summer cashmere, offering a sweet yet subversive take on the traditional uniform. Paired with suede or glazed lambskin summer coats, these outfits balance delicate craftsmanship with a bold, youthful edge. The baby doll silhouettes, so quintessentially French, make a return in both black-and-white plaid and fully embellished variations, adding playful nostalgia with a touch of couture glam.
Slimane’s fascination with distortion and proportion is evident in standout moments like the vinyl plaid set with its round collar and shorter skirt—a piece that feels almost transcendent in its simplicity yet speaks volumes in its audacity. There’s a tension between the playful, youthful spirit of the 1960s and the rigorous precision of couture, embodied in the 20 meticulously crafted couture looks that elevate the collection. Shimmering ornamental flowers and carefully placed sequins bring a delicate grandeur to the mini dresses, while suspended silk pieces, embroidered with giant rhodoid flowers lacquered in crystals, create a sense of weightless opulence.
No Slimane collection is complete without attention to the minutiae, and for Summer 2025, every stitch, every button, and every accessory is imbued with meaning. Central to the collection is the Joséphine bag—a luxurious, made-to-order masterpiece from Celine’s ateliers. Its curved, erect handle harks back to the Belle Époque, yet its sleek, modern design speaks to the timelessness of Slimane’s vision. Available in polished or lacquered exotic leathers, the bag becomes a symbol of the collection’s marriage of history and modernity, with shades ranging from ruby and emerald to amber lizard skin.
The footwear is equally captivating, with Celine’s graphic slingbacks rendered in exotic, lacquered leathers—think lizard, python, and crocodile. These sharp, almost architectural designs ground the collection’s softer silhouettes, while the layer-upon-layer of Celine necklaces, draped over sequined sleeveless T-shirts, add a bohemian touch, transforming casual pieces into luxurious statement looks.
The models in Un Été Français exude the spirit of 1960s icons, particularly the recently departed Françoise Hardy, to whom Slimane pays tribute. With sharp eyeliner reminiscent of Juliette Gréco and the signature short bob or fringe, the beauty looks feel both youthful and imbued with a melancholic elegance. Created by Slimane for Celine’s Beauté line, the Les Yeux Celine eyeliner is a bold yet refined ode to the era’s most iconic muses.
A signature fragrance, also titled Un Été Français, created by Slimane for Celine’s haute perfumery line, adds a final, sensory layer to the collection’s atmosphere. Its notes of bergamot, petitgrain, neroli, and jasmine, laced with vanilla and gorse, evoke the warmth and lightness of a French summer, perfectly complementing the airy elegance of the garments. This scent lingers like a memory, enveloping the collection in a delicate veil of nostalgia.
A Poignant Farewell: Slimane’s Transformative Legacy
Slimane’s Summer 2025 collection marks not just the end of a season, but the close of a transformative era for Celine. His departure, announced shortly after the show, leaves behind a house forever changed. From the introduction of menswear and a beauty line to the expansion into couture, Slimane’s tenure has been defined by bold innovation and a reinvention of Celine’s identity. Yet, his departure feels like a natural evolution—his final collection is a poetic conclusion to his narrative at the house.
The appointment of Michael Rider, a key player during Phoebe Philo’s golden age at Celine, heralds a new chapter, one poised for further growth and excitement. Slimane’s meticulous vision, however, will leave an indelible mark on the brand, his final collection a testament to his ability to weave history, rebellion, and elegance into a narrative that is both timeless and deeply personal.
As the heroine of Un Été Français walks away in her black silk jersey headband, sharp eyeliner, and a wistful gaze, Slimane’s departure feels both melancholy and triumphant. The king is dead, but his legacy, like the memories of a perfect French summer, will linger long after the final model exits the stage.
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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