Brunello Cucinelli has long been the maestro of refined ease, a designer who understands that true luxury isn’t about extravagance—it’s about authenticity, craftsmanship, innovative tailoring and the kind of elegance that feels as natural as breathing. For Autumn/Winter 2025, Cucinelli delves into a deeply philosophical exploration of duality, marrying the primal pull of instinct with the measured precision of reason. The result? A wardrobe that is intuitive and intellectual, balancing structured tailoring with fluid femininity, heritage with modernity, and order with a deliberately unpolished charm.
This season, the codes of equestrianism gallop into the spotlight, but never in a way that feels overly traditional. Instead, Cucinelli disrupts the expected with subtle but striking contradictions. Horse blazers and water-repellent capes exude refinement, yet poplin shirts are softened by fluid ribbons and shimmering lavallières that cascade with effortless grace. The equestrian-cut trousers nod to classicism but take on new life when paired unexpectedly with delicate flats, challenging notions of strict formality. The presence of Prince of Wales checks, tweeds, and tartans channels an air of British aristocracy, yet they’re reimagined through unexpected details: stitched denim under-collars, cinched waists with supple leather belts, and glistening embroidered gems that add a whisper of opulence.
Texture takes centre stage, reinforcing Cucinelli’s belief in fashion as a tactile experience. Plush knit blazers and unstructured jackets dissolve the rigidity of traditional tailoring, enveloping the body in comfort while still maintaining a polished presence. Circle skirts—ranging from flirty mini to graceful midi—find their perfect counterpart in chevalier boots, their monili-embellished spurs adding a hint of rebellion to an otherwise composed silhouette. Matching sets are subverted; rather than adhering to predictable coordination, they revel in contrast—crisp shirts meet fluid skirts, structured trousers are paired with soft blouses, and unexpected clashes of pattern and colour inject new energy into timeless wardrobe staples.
Accessories act as the binding thread between the collection’s dual forces, reinforcing Cucinelli’s commitment to both function and beauty. Knee-high boots, cinching belts, and impeccably crafted gloves lend an air of quiet confidence, their buttery leathers and artisanal flourishes epitomising modern femininity with an edge. The colour palette, too, plays with contrast: light, natural Panama tones illuminate deep shades of burgundy and brown, forging a visual dialogue between warmth and coolness, tradition and modernity, restraint and indulgence.
With AW25, Brunello Cucinelli reaffirms his mastery of effortless luxury, proving that elegance isn’t about adhering to rigid rules—it’s about embracing the unexpected, trusting both instinct and intellect and allowing the beauty of imperfection to take centre stage. This is a collection designed for the woman who moves through the world with purpose, sophistication, and an unwavering sense of self.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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