Julian Klausner made his runway debut as Creative Director for Dries Van Noten with the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection, Behind the Curtain. Presented at the historic Palais Garnier in Paris, the collection explored the interplay between past and present, tradition and transformation. Klausner, stepping into the role after Dries Van Noten’s departure in March last year, took a thoughtful and refined approach to reinterpreting the house’s signature aesthetic while introducing a new era of sophisticated opulence.
Colour played a central role in the collection, offering a striking balance between warmth and vibrancy. Emerald green and electric blue sat alongside fiery oranges and shimmering metallic yellows, their interplay reminiscent of a sunset over a vast landscape. These hues, punctuated with moments of rich jewel tones, created an almost cinematic effect, bringing depth and emotion to the garments. The palette felt both deliberate and spontaneous, a nod to Klausner’s ability to evoke mood and movement through colour.
Texture was another defining feature, drawing inspiration from the ornate world of opera décor. Velvet, rug jacquards, and decadent silks were complemented by unexpected elements like curtain tassels and intricate fringes. These tactile embellishments elevated the collection beyond mere garments, transforming each piece into a sensorial experience. The balance between structured tailoring and fluid draping added a dynamic contrast—sculptural coats and sharply tailored suits juxtaposed against flowing gowns and voluminous blouses.
Silhouettes referenced the past while embracing modernity. Sloping shoulders, precise tailoring, and Art Deco-inspired embellishments nodded to the 1930s, while hints of Eastern influences appeared in obi-style belts cinching layers of silk and velvet. Oversized cuffs, sculpted matelassé curls, and fabric-covered buttons along pant legs hinted at a rebellious interpretation of classic elegance. The result was a collection that felt deeply personal yet universally resonant, as if each piece told a story of reinvention and discovery.
In his show notes, Klausner reflected on his inspiration: “I imagined women passing through the opera, collecting fabrics and objects, tying them together with a shoelace while searching for an unknown answer. Behind the curtain, where creation and practice happen, I found the raw energy that defines fashion for me today.” This sentiment was woven throughout the collection, reinforcing the notion that clothing is not just about aesthetics but also about transformation and self-expression.
Accessories further underscored the collection’s narrative. Shoes featured exaggerated round toes, while jewellery crafted from knotted shoelaces added an unexpected, intimate touch. The collection’s overall aesthetic blended theatricality with wearability, ensuring that each piece felt like part of a larger, living tableau.
Taking the helm of such an esteemed house is no small feat, but Klausner’s debut signalled a promising new direction. While he exercised restraint in certain areas, the underlying potential for innovation was palpable. This collection set the stage for an exciting evolution at Dries Van Noten—one that honours the past while carving out a bold new future.
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Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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