Olivier Rousteing is rewriting Balmain’s narrative. For years, the maison has been synonymous with glitzy opulence—embellished power blazers, gilded hardware, and a Balmain army that marched in hyper-structured silhouettes. But the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection signals an evolution, one where sensuality overtakes excess, and a new kind of luxury emerges.
"I was known for the Balmain army, and for a kind of loudness and sexiness. Now I feel there's more sensuality… She's still the same woman—she's just evolving," Rousteing reflected in his show notes. This season, Balmain trades its signature gold embellishments for the quiet confidence of sculptural knitwear, fluid tailoring, and a moody monochrome palette. The shift is deliberate; it’s a rejection of fashion’s obsession with maximalism in favour of a wardrobe that exudes power through softness.
Gone are the diamanté-encrusted corsets that once adorned Beyoncé on stage. In their place, voluminous coats envelop the body, draped cardigans pool over matching woolen boots, and cashmere layers redefine what it means to be bold. The collection moves away from overt ornamentation, yet remains distinctly Balmain in its construction. A single show-stopping gold look—a wide-hipped, beaded dress—nods to the house’s past, proving that evolution does not mean erasure.
Prints, too, embrace a refined restraint. Zebra motifs, once associated with the untamed energy of the Balmain woman, are rendered with couture-like precision, fusing raw animalistic strength with quiet confidence. Elsewhere, deep greys and soft melanges dominate, marking a stark departure from Rousteing’s past metallics. The play of texture—leather peplums sculpting knitwear, nappa trousers paired with oversized hooded sweaters—offers a tactile richness that speaks to the collection’s refined yet impactful vision.
Despite its newfound restraint, Balmain’s DNA remains. A zebra trench coat commands attention, while a luxe cargo jumpsuit and a sharply striped peplum dress nod to the house’s architectural signatures. A flash of burnt orange punctuates the otherwise sombre palette, reminding us that Rousteing is still a master of drama, just in a more controlled, mature form.
The collection also speaks to the broader shift happening in fashion—where comfort and elegance are no longer at odds, and where high fashion embraces a more lived-in approach. Recent muse Doja Cat sat front row among industry elites, witnessing a designer who is no longer constrained by the codes he once defined. This is Balmain, reimagined. A house that still worships structure but now whispers its power rather than shouting it.
For more information visit Balmain
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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