Balenciaga’s Summer 2025 collection, crafted by the ever-provocative Demna Gvasalia, unfolded in a setting as audacious as the designs themselves. The show space was dramatically dark, with the spotlight falling on a polished wooden dinner table that stretched through the room like a grand runway. Fashion royalty—including Anna Wintour, Lindsay Lohan, Future, and Nicole Kidman—sat along both sides, indulging in an intimate, voyeuristic view of the collection. This opulent dinner setup reflected Demna's flair for creating immersive, experiential fashion shows, blending performance art with runway spectacle.
The opening looks served up a tantalising prelude to what would be an unforgettable show. Models glided down the table in skin-toned retro lingerie-style bodysuits that hugged every curve, juxtaposed against Balenciaga's iconic mesh pantashoes. The bodysuits were sleek, sensual, and unapologetically bold, immediately setting a provocative tone. Each piece exuded a sultry glamour, reminiscent of vintage Hollywood starlets, but with Demna's modern edge.
Adding a layer of dramatic contrast, one standout look featured a bodysuit enveloped by an oversized, plush brown fur coat. The extravagance of the fur paired with the lingerie created a luxurious tension, blending sensuality with a striking sense of power. Following this were ‘40s-inspired dresses that played with structure—prim and polished at the front, but revealing sexy open-back corset detailing. The models strutted with effortless confidence, clutching the season’s updated Rodeo bag, each piece reinforcing Demna’s newfound embrace of ultra-feminine, vintage-inspired silhouettes.
Just as the audience settled into this elegant, feminine mood, the show shifted gears. The sultry croon of 'Why Don’t You Do Right' faded, replaced by a hard-hitting techno remix of Britney Spears’ 'Gimme More', and with it, the main course arrived: an explosive lineup of oversized, sculptural shapes. Demna’s signature play on proportion took centre stage as models donned exaggerated, square-shouldered jackets and billowing bombers, paired with super-low-waisted pants that teetered on the edge of provocation. The pants were daringly low-slung, exposing a tantalising amount of skin and creating a sharp contrast with the structured puffy tops.
The oversized silhouettes, executed with immaculate tailoring, seemed almost architectural in their precision, while the face-concealing caps and shield-like black sunglasses added a layer of anonymity. The models were mysterious, almost faceless, embodying the collection's subtext of identity and alienation in a hyper-modern, over-digitized world.
As the models continued their promenade, the theme of overconsumption emerged with deliberate clarity. Demna served his most excessive looks yet—jackets had corsets for collars, jeans for lapels, and coats attached to hoodies in layers of organised chaos. Pieces were exaggerated to the extreme, layered upon each other like piles of discarded garments, an almost satirical commentary on fashion’s insatiable hunger for more. Models wore skirts crafted entirely from over-the-knee leather boots, and sweatshirts had coats draped from the sleeves. It was an aesthetic overindulgence that bordered on the absurd, yet masterfully so.
iPhones dangled from models' wrists, a modern-day accessory emblematic of the tech-obsessed era, while garments seemed to multiply in layers, mimicking the piles of clothes hoarded by fashion's overconsumers. Every detail was designed to be loud, extravagant, and exaggerated. Demna’s message? Fashion, much like society, can often lose itself in the excess. And yet, despite the chaos, there was beauty to be found in the overindulgence.
As the show reached its peak, Demna’s expertise in tailoring and craftsmanship came into sharp focus. The final three looks showcased ultra-squared, oversized shoulders—Demna’s signature silhouette taken to its most extreme. The precision of these garments, with their clean, angular lines and flawless construction, contradicted the earlier messy, layered looks. This shift from chaos to order reflected the collection’s underlying narrative: while fashion may often seem excessive and flawed, true mastery lies in the ability to balance this with refinement and control.
The garments, though oversized and dramatic, were immaculately tailored, exuding an almost regal elegance. These closing looks were powerful statements of Demna’s ability to create both chaos and harmony, pushing the boundaries of wearable art while staying rooted in the designer’s skilful execution.
Throughout the collection, Demna wove in subtle yet potent messages. Among the more overt were two slogans splashed across key pieces: “HUMAN BEING” and “FASHION DESIGNER.” These graphics underscored the designer’s belief that fashion is an inherently flawed, human endeavour, reflecting the imperfections of those who create and consume it. It was a statement on the messiness of life and the inevitable contradictions that define both humanity and the industry.
By the show’s end, it was clear that Demna had crafted a collection that went far beyond the realm of clothing. He had created an immersive experience, a commentary on excess, identity, and the imperfect nature of fashion and society. It wasn’t just a show—it was a statement, delivered with the sharp wit and irreverence that have come to define his work.
Words by Jheannelle Feanny
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