Alaïa AW25: Sculpting Strength and Sensuality Through Time
- Vingt Sept
- Mar 10
- 2 min read
After a brief hiatus in New York, Pieter Mulier made his highly anticipated return to Paris Fashion Week, presenting an awe-inspiring collection for Alaïa that masterfully blended contrasting elements: strength and delicacy, tradition and innovation, form and fluidity.
Held within the sacred space of the Alaïa atelier, the show unfolded like a visual journey through time and art, with models weaving around the fragmented, timeless sculptures of Dutch artist Mark Manders. Mulier described his fascination with Manders’ work, noting how the sculptures seem like works in progress, echoing various cultures while challenging the boundaries of time and space. "The idea of beauty codes beyond any era or geography, unbound and infinite, aligns perfectly with the philosophy of Alaïa," he reflected, underscoring the brand's enduring identity.
Opening the show, a trio of sculptural, monastic looks set the tone, with pouf hoods haloing the models’ heads, and sheer mesh delicately skimming their angular silhouettes, evoking an otherworldly atmosphere. The highlight was the unexpected detailing: oversized, padded ruffs that wrapped around the neck and shoulders, mimicking a reptilian spine, offering a bold, dramatic twist on the structured silhouette.
Mulier’s trademark precision was paired with a new sense of grandeur, delivering unexpected opulence. Dramatic crinolines jutted out at the hips, their voluminous fabric flowing into soft pleats. Sharp colour blocking added a jolt of energy, while shaggy fur coats enveloped the body in a plush cocoon. Leather fringe skirts swished like exoskeletons, and layered silhouettes accentuated the natural curves of the female form, echoing the topography of the body.
The designer described his collection as a celebration of history, geography, and, most notably, women. "The message here is one of singularity, individuality, and the timeless strength of women—empowering them through what they wear," Mulier explained. "Azzedine was always inspired by this, and so am I—the strength that beauty carries." Each piece, a synthesis of opposing forces—strength and sensuality, fragility and power—was designed to be lived in, worn with confidence, and moved with ease.
Mulier’s narrative was further underscored by an original soundtrack, "Liefde," composed by Gustave Rudman and featuring soprano Fatma Saïd’s rendition of Khalil Gibran’s Aatini al-Nay wa-Ghanni. The music, rooted in diverse cultural origins, reflected the collection's universal message.
The clothes were dynamic, like kinetic sculptures in motion, alive with pleats and drapes that moved with purpose. Hoods both concealed and revealed, framing the models’ faces like a portrait of beauty, while body-conscious designs wrapped the figures in layers that were as protective as they were expressive. These garments, shaped to mirror the contours of the female body, acted as a shield, embracing femininity and empowerment in a way that felt both intimate and fiercely independent.
For Mulier, this collection was a profound meditation on the resilience of women, the power of self-expression, and the ever-evolving relationship between fashion and identity.
For more information visit Alaïa
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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